Tamarindo: Final Session

I return now to writing at two in the morning, just hours away from a fateful trip to México. I cannot claim that I recall correctly the moments described below my present comments but I will attest that surfing in Tamarindo left an indelible impression on me.

I began surfing in earnest with only the second and final week of my time in Costa Rica. I rented an 8' 2" NSP, a veritable boat which I found incredibly easy to ride and float. Still, the first few days were fun and difficult, as I struggled without instruction to get my feet under me and catch waves. All these difficulties drifted away after an afternoon lesson with Fao from the Banana Surf Club. Two details for me were particularly useful:

1. Look up and toward your destination after catching the wave. If you look down at the board and/or water, you will fall down in the water/on the board.
2. Find the peak of the wave, start there, and take an angled attack.

The week continued, and despite greater skill and confidence, the waves were not altogether cooperating. We suffered through a few trashy days, beaten over and over by the waves. And I eventually cut down from morning and afternoon sessions to only a single, given my exhaustion and need to work. So I approached Saturday, my final day in Tamarindo, with some excitement but also apprehension. Here would be my last chance to surf on this trip.

Saturday afternoon, Bailey, Lott, Tina, Eric, and I headed back to La Casita, determined catch beautiful waves in our final session. (Ignore, please, that the rest of these folks, having later flights the next day, also surfed Sunday morning. Jerks.)

And the afternoon was perfect and beautiful, with numerous but still sparse clouds portending a peerless sunset. The waves were equal to the sky and La Casita was crowded with locals and foreigners alike. We caught what waves we could claim, and switched off on waterproof camera duty (thanks, Tina!). I had a few nice waves to start, but nothing spectacular—I was catching waves, paddling in well, and standing without trouble but never getting one of those long lefts or rights across the face. But really, with a view like this, did I actually care?

(BTW, paddle boarders are pain in the ass. "Oh, I can't turn! Oh, I'll decide to go whatever direction on the wave I want!" Jerks.)

After the sunset, we found ourselves as the only surfers in the water. Let me tell you: catching good waves is much easier when you don't have to battle for (read: defer) priority with superior surfers. And so, when I saw una bella ola on its way in, I claimed it as my own, paddling around the corner into position and then concentrating on acceleration. I felt the wave catch me and I paddled a few more and then I reached this funny moment. I knew it was time to pop up, but something felt strange or different, and as I got my feet under me, I thought to myself:

Oh, shit, I am about to ride this wave sideways!

And here is the photo of approximately three (3) seconds after that moment.

Can you see the joy? I caught this long glorious left, and I rode it and turned out, and I was satisfied. I think we all found that moment, that joy, on Saturday afternoon. And although this session was my final of this particular trip to Tamarindo, I will surely surf again, and I will return to Costa Rica.

Thanks to Tina for photographs.